Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Liberator Gold

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Ok, now it’s time to paint the shoulder pad. I really dislike using transfers, and I hated how goofy the old Night Lords transfers looked and I hate trying to make transfers fit on rounded shoulder pads. So what I’ve been doing for the last few years is freehanding shoulder icons. And today, I’m going to show you how that process works for my night lords. Edge highlighting – The metal and gold parts get an edge highlight of Ironbreaker, and I use the same color for the rivets. For the armor, I do an edge highlight with The Fang and the another smaller edge highlight with Snow Shadow on the corners and top edges. I edge the leather parts with Mournfang Brown. I do a standard gemstone pattern on the gemstone on his shoulder pad. I decided to create my interpretation of Aethon Shaan’s 1st Company Raven Guard. I started with the Captain himself, using a head swap from the Forge World upgrade set , which significantly changes the dynamic of the miniature. Anyway, here’s how I paint them with the award winning (awards pending) Completely Ok Dark blue Armour method.: After this starts looking ‘good’ add in some ‘cool’ by mixing Lahminan Medium with Ulthuan Grey, repeating the above process but further down the blade.

The copper quad is "decayed metal", "victorian brass", "old copper" and "pure copper". I find these less useful, as I usually want a brass rather than a copper effect (think polished brass instruments, or ornaments); these are definitely biased more towards a red-hued copper of different ages. If you want a copper range though, they are great. These are the armies that I would recommend painting with Liberator Gold, as they all have a lot of metallic and machinery elements that would benefit from the shine and metallic look of this paint. Liberator Gold Colour Schemes & CombinationsIn addition, most advertising networks offer you a way to opt out of targeted advertising. If you would like to find out more information, please visit http://www.aboutads.info/choices/or http://www.youronlinechoices.com.

Retibutor has only one other competitor for a Base gold paint, and that's Balthasar Gold. I have to say, as a gold paint, it far outshines its predecessor. That's not to say Balthasar is bad, in fact I love that paint. If you are being fair though Balthasar Gold isn't really a gold paint, it's more accurately a brass or copper. Retributor Gold though is exactly what it says it is. It's a rich, deep, and fairly bright gold color. I am beyond excited that I finally have a real gold Base paint. Finish the model off with some basing. I do all of my Night Lords with snow/winter bases. So for most of them, I paint the base with Reaper Ghost White, then I cover the base with Valhallan Blizzard texture paint. I used to use Mourn Mountain Snow for this but that stuff looked like white dirt, and the new texture paint looks much more like actual snow.

Freehand in some Lightning Bolts – I do this using Reaper Ghost White. If I’m doing larger bolts, I’ll do a thinner bolt of Reaper Pure White inside that, but for smaller models I just do the one off-white layer. I use a 10/0 brush for this. Put paint on your brush and start at the top, then drift downard using a light touch. Wherever your brush first touches the model is gonna get a drop of paint, so if you add branches I find it’s easier to start higher up and go over the bolt center again. I do all this before I do the trim work, and I’ll paint over the bolts a little as well. Generally, I do bolts on the shoulder pads, the sides of the thighs (if that space is open), and the sides of the greaves. On models with cleaner chest plates, I might add a bolt there as well, or on the tops of lightning claws. Gold Trim – I do my gold Trim with Retributor Armour. I used to do it with Balthasar Gold, then a few layers of Auric Armour but that took forever and came out too yellow. This new method is faster and looks better. Basically I do Retributor then hit it with a couple coats of Agrax Earthshade. The Terminators are wonderful to paint – big, chunky and really solid in hand. They also took Contrast paints really well as I went with my tried and tested – and relatively easy – method of painting yellow.

They are useful, but I do use them far less than the main metallic quads (I bought all three sets); so though each 8 paint set is cheaper than buying them individually, it's not 50% cheaper. Depends whether you'd think you'd use the alchemy add ons as to whether you just buy the quads as single paints. I am an indifferent painter at best, so the obvious choice was a Chapter featuring a lot of white, the hardest colour for Space Marine armour. The Mentor Legion have not historically mustered in strength, being too busy swanning around the galaxy teaching other Imperial forces how to shoot straight and so forth, but the Leviathan threat is clearly so enormous that they’re now deploying as an army. Washes – time to do some fast shading. I use Carroburg Crimson on the red parts, Nuln Oil on the metal parts, Coelia Greenshade on the cabling, and Agrax Earthshade on the gold trim and bone parts. I also use Carroburg Crimson and Nuln oil to shade the upper right corners of the gemstone. Bolter and Chainsword users have created a sweet Nostramn Alphabet to use on your minis. I doodle these on kneepads and shoulders as squad/warband markings.Jokes aside, Night Lords are my fave traitor legion. Their lore is great and the concept of various warbands of these major screw ups roving around the galaxy is great for creating your very own group of deluded murderers. There is also an element of Kurze totally and utterly failing his sons on every level, dooming them to their current tragedy of an existence that I personally enjoy. Lord of the Night by Simon Spurrier. A long lost Night Lord from the heresy goes up against an entire planet alone. Until ADB’s Night Lords trilogy this was the go-to for source material about the 8th legion. For the love of god, don’t do the armour 1st. Start with the fresh hell that is gold trim on chaos marines. Coat with Nuln Oil – Most of the infantry I paint follows a basecoat > shade > coat > highlight process, and that’s true here. Cover your model in Nuln Oil, and hit the lower areas and edges with a second coat of Nuln Oil.